We had never heard of Ashland but ended up spending a few days there. We found a idyllic campground at Emigrant Lake with showers and a lovely lake to swim in which was only $20 a night.

While there we decided to replace Fred’s oil and brake pads. The oil went ok but the front brake pads were the wrong ones for the front so we ended up driving back to the shop to return them. Turns out it was the back brakes causing the problem so once we changed those pads and got the pistons working evenly, everything was sweet.

We hired Specialized Enduro mountain bikes for the day and cycled the trails of Ashland. In the morning we slogged up the mountain under our own steam to do trails called Catwalk, Toothpick, Caterpillar, Lizard and Jaberwocky. In the afternoon we took the shuttle up to Mount Ashland ski lodge at 6,700 ft to the snow, low clouds and cold weather.

From there we rode Upper and Lower Bull Gap, Missing Links and then a repeat of the morning trails. It was much quicker with an uplift! Back at the hire shop, Bill chatted bikes and motorbikes with us over a beer – what service! Then we headed to Bill’s recommendation of The Caldera Brewery for some fab food and a couple of tasting flights. What a great day!

After getting to know our cute neighbours we set off on the road towards Crater Lake.

After visiting an uninspiring museum at Fort Klamath we found a campsite in the Rogue River National Park. We pulled up in bright sunshine but unfortunately the mosquitoes were quite persistent.

Then we had a hailstorm which seemed to make it better. But it was cold. We were at a bit of elevation but it was the first time in two months that we’d had to use the extra sleeping bag!

Crater Lake National Park was amazing with deep, deep blue water, snow covered ground and clear blue skies. The lake is 592m at its deepest and took 800 years to fill. We took so many photographs as we cycled around the 5 miles of the 31miles rim road that is currently open (they are still clearing the majority of the rim road and the East side might not be open until mid July!).

As the campground is still closed with snow, we left the park and drove North back in the National Forest, visited National Creek Falls and then found a campsite for the night.