Many Koreans (and Japanese and Chinese) come to Jeju Do to be near the stunning coastline and escape the heat of the cities. We came here to escape forecasted snow in Seoul but it was far from warm – more like the IOM really – strong bracing cold wind!
Thankfully, we had booked a rental car, and not the rental scooter that we had considered, as the wind at the airport was brutal! We drove to the South Coast to a place called Seogwipo, and we headed to our sea-facing apartment just West of the town. We are close to a World Cup stadium used in the 202 World Cup of Korea and Japan. The view from our balcony is stunning, looking across to Beomseom-Cub Island.
Korea seems to sell much more international food than Japan and the supermarket had great looking pizzas. Having only had pizza once since end of November, we ended up having takeaway pizza two nights in a row.
We went to explore Seongsan-Ilchulbong, a volcanic crater that you can walk up the outside of. It was very windy but a cool place the see.
The beach next to it was sheltered and some old grandmothers of the Haenyo (the female divers) were there selling abalone, sea cucumbers and urchins. Janet had read a book about the Hanyeo women and really wanted to come here for that reason.
Next we went to check out the old traditional village of Seongeup Village but not a lot going on there as we are in the shoulder season for tourism.
Then we went to Wonang Falls in the Donnaeko Valley – finally somewhere out of the wind!
There was a beautiful sunset !
We spent a day chilling at our apartment and only venturing locally in between snow showers (or more accurately going out each time snow was heading our way – woops).
Once the wind subsided a bit, we had a day on the South Coast. First, we went to the Jungmun coast to see the Jusangjeolli cliffs.
Next was a series of three waterfalls called the Cheonjeyeon waterfalls.
Then we stopped at a lovely temple on the way to Isaeseom island and bridge.
Then two more waterfalls, first Cheonjiyeon waterfall and then Jeongbang falls which flow into the ocean.
We splashed out and tried some black pig on Korean BBQ. Very tasty
On our last day, we had planned to climb Mount Hallasan, the mountain in the centre of the island. After the recent snow, we realised a lower trail would be necessary. Eventually, we chose the lowest trail called Yeongsil Trail. Unfortunately it was still above the snow line and so the road was closed to the car park. Despite a dash of 2.5kms, we reached the checkpoint 2 minutes before the cutoff point only to be told we couldn’t proceed without snow crampons for our shoes.
Plam B became a walk in a nature reserve called Sam-Uiag which overlooks Jeju City.
Thank you, Jeju. Our time here has been lovely. It would be lovely to return when it’s warmer and we could get in the sea (as I had promised I would – not in that baltic strong wind) !
