Many Koreans (and Japanese and Chinese) come to Jeju Do to be near the stunning coastline and escape the heat of the cities.  We came here to escape forecasted snow in Seoul but it was far from warm – more like the IOM really – strong bracing cold wind!

Thankfully, we had booked a rental car, and not the rental scooter that we had considered, as the wind at the airport was brutal!  We drove to the South Coast to a place called Seogwipo, and we headed to our sea-facing apartment just West of the town.  We are close to a World Cup stadium used in the 202 World Cup of Korea and Japan.  The view from our balcony is stunning, looking across to Beomseom-Cub Island.

It may look tropical – but it is definitely not that warm right now

Korea seems to sell much more international food than Japan and the supermarket had great looking pizzas.  Having only had pizza once since end of November, we ended up having takeaway pizza two nights in a row.

We went to explore Seongsan-Ilchulbong, a volcanic crater that you can walk up the outside of.  It was very windy but a cool place the see. 

Windy?  No!
The crater behind us

The beach next to it was sheltered and some old grandmothers of the Haenyo (the female divers) were there selling abalone, sea cucumbers and urchins.  Janet had read a book about the Hanyeo women and really wanted to come here for that reason. 

Haenyo equipment
Haenyo grandmother’s slicing the fish
Haenyo mural
An original Haenyo ?
Sea urchins and cucmbers

Next we went to check out the old traditional village of Seongeup Village but not a lot going on there as we are in the shoulder season for tourism. 

Fab thatched rooves
Volcanic sculptures everywhere

Then we went to Wonang Falls in the Donnaeko Valley – finally somewhere out of the wind!

Water levels are a bit low

There was a beautiful sunset !

Insta – tastic
Getting better
Ahh, just beautiful

We spent a day chilling at our apartment and only venturing locally in between snow showers (or more accurately going out each time snow was heading our way – woops).

Once the wind subsided a bit, we had a day on the South Coast.  First, we went to the Jungmun coast to see the Jusangjeolli cliffs.

Think Korean Giant’s Causeway.

Next was a series of three waterfalls called the Cheonjeyeon waterfalls.

Waterfall 1 with no water flowing
Spectacular pedestrian bridge over falls 2
Waterfall 2
Waterfall 3

Then we stopped at a lovely temple on the way to Isaeseom island and bridge.

Yakcheonsa Temple
Beautiful carvings.  It was built in the 1980s
A spectacular pedestrian bridge
Mount Hallasan in the distance

Then two more waterfalls, first Cheonjiyeon waterfall and then Jeongbang falls which flow into the ocean.

Cheonjiyeon waterfall
They call these the Grandfathers – to protect places and people
Just before about 3 buses of teenagers arrived – phew!

We splashed out and tried some black pig on Korean BBQ.  Very tasty

On our last day, we had planned to climb Mount Hallasan, the mountain in the centre of the island.  After the recent snow, we realised a lower trail would be necessary.  Eventually, we chose the lowest trail called Yeongsil Trail.  Unfortunately it was still above the snow line and so the road was closed to the car park.  Despite a dash of 2.5kms, we reached the checkpoint 2 minutes before the cutoff point only to be told we couldn’t proceed without snow crampons for our shoes. 

The dash up the road
Sights seeing at the checkpoint
A disappointing descent.

Plam B became a walk in a nature reserve called Sam-Uiag which overlooks Jeju City.

Can you spot the deer?
Hazy view over the city

Thank you, Jeju.  Our time here has been lovely.  It would be lovely to return when it’s warmer and we could get in the sea (as I had promised I would – not in that baltic strong wind) ! 

Love the Hanyeo sculptures everywhere!
Morning sunrise on the way to the airport

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