The first place in Alberta that we went to after Waterton Lakes National Park was called Cardston. We needed some groceries and beer was on the shopping list. We found none in the supermarket but we thought, perhaps it is like BC with seperate liquor stores. So we asked and it turns out that Cardston is a dry state. I thought Pete was going to choke and pass out right there an then. Luckily it wasn’t far to the next state in Alberta that had many, busy liquor stores.
We visited a bizarrely named tourist site that had stuck with me since someone in Sun Peaks told me about it called the “Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump” – enough to give you nightmares!
We got to try throwing arrows using their long arm device. Pete was pretty good at it. I was as pants as my throwing usually is but at least my arrow always went forwards – that’s something! We stayed the night in Pincher Creek after we got chatting to a Parks guy who said it would be fine to sleep in the park car park. Ace! It was lovely and quiet and some early yoga the next morning was a great way to start the day – oh and watching the local deers.
Next we drove East along the Crowsnest Pass. We visited the ruins of Leitch colieries which went bankrupt in the first world war.
Next was the town of Frank where in 1903 a rock slide 1km wide of Turtle Mountain buried much of the town and killed many.
It was amazing to see the huge rocks still lying there.
We stayed the night at Lost Lemon camping in Braimore where I had an amazing swim for an hour, alone in the pool. Then a lovely hot shower and later a hot tub. It was all lovely except for horrendous mossies and a campsite right next to the trainline where they honk the horn like it’s an Olympic event – even in the middle of the night. We moved on !
Pete had tracked down the route for day 5 of the Trans BC Enduro in Coleman so we cycled up to watch a bit.
Then I let Pete ride the black School of Rock trail (twice) while I did uplifts and refilled our water supplies. Pete was very happy.
We headed East once more and after seeing “the biggest truck in the world” in Sparwood and, crossing a mythical border into British Colombia, we reached Fernie.
The town used to be all about mining but now makes its money from winter skiing and summer mountain biking. It has a cool vibe about it.We had a tasty curry at a Himilayan restaurant – and the best naan breads ever – yum yum yum. Ooh I’ve missed curry. We enjoyed a quiet night by a park with no mossies – bliss. I like this place! Next day we hiked to Fairy Creek Falls then went for a swim at the aquacentre (great springboard and showers) .
We had a look around town (aka every bike shop in town) and rewarded ourselves with an early beer.The next day we cycled up The Lazy Lizard trail (7km all up) to The Island Lake.
We walked around the lake, enjoyed our picnic lunch and then cycled down again – the return journey was much more enjoyable if you could block out the clanging bicycle stands.And then onto a much needed stop at the laundrette in Cranbook.
We found our first Canadian Forestry area and stayed there in the very quiet forest – only a few branches cracking in the dark to scare Pete. The next morning we saw loads of wild deer on our way to, and also at, Idleweld Park. What a serene lakeside park to have our breakfast! We then visited our first Bottle Depot and what an experience that was. This is a recycling centre where you take your glass bottles and cans and receive 10 cent per item. We turned up with our little carrier bag of items to see everyone else in the car park with huge clear bags full of cans and whole pick up trucks full of bottles. Wow!
We visited Moyie Lake and had a “refreshing” swim and some lunch. Next we got to Crawford Bay on the East side of Kootenay Lake. We’d crossed another magical border only this time we’d gained an hour – yippee! We visited a cool, volunteer-maintained lighthouse, Pilot lighthouse.
Then went in search of our first BC Recreation Area. These are maintained by forestry and offer similar to the US dispersed camping. For $12 we found an amazing lakeside campsite which was just idyllic. We got to enjoy a beer on a rock overlooking the lake just before the rain arrived.
The extra bonus was that by the time we were ready to leave no one has come to collect our money as the sign said, so our camping was free! !!!!Something else that is free around here is the ferries – can you believe it????? Its not like The Steam Packet here! A scenic 35 minute crossing from Kootenay Bay to Balfour, and not a penny charged – wow!
We drove to Aisworth Hot Springs and loved their caves filled with stalyctites that you swam your warm around.
And followed by a quick dip in the cold plunge pool. That certainly gets the heart pumping. That afternoon we tried to find Milford Lake Recreation Area and campsite. We turned off the tarmac onto a rocky forest road which climbed, and climbed and climbed up the mountainside. Eventually we feared for altitude sickness or loss of our exhaust or bikes on the steepening drainage ditches. We decided to stop the climbing, turn around at one of the few places wide enough and just sleep there for the night.
Just us, some wild raspberries, a rainbow and the bears. We never did find the recreation area but we did find an amazing rainbow.
With a rainy day ahead of us we drove to Nakusp to try their hot springs.
The caves were missing but sitting in a hot outdoor bath with icy raindrops falling on you was very pleasant and even more enjoyable while watching hummingbirds feed which apparently migrate from Mexico each summer.
The town of Nakusp is small but had a Three Lions Pub! Having not been in a pub for months and having no Wi-Fi for days we decided to give it a go. It actually got quite busy and we chatted to some bikers who’d rode 12 hours in the rain from Prince George. Poor them ! Even as we sat there it was raining days and dogs outside and a lightening show accompanied us back to Fred for the night.
