The North Coast – Lan Ha Bay

So everyone has heard of, or seen pictures of, Ha Long Bay and that was where we were thinking of heading until we heard how many cruise boats (junk boats) were all visiting the same places plus within a two day trip you only got to kayak for about half an hour. Janet was very unhappy about the lack of kayaking and researched trips which allowed more and led us to the next bay South (and not SO touristy) called Lan Ha Bay. And then we were booked on a two day kayak trip with an overnight stay in Eco-bungalows on a limestone island.

We booked with Blue Swimmer in Cat Ba as they seemed to have the best kayak equipment, experienced guides (two things we would really see the importance of later), great Trip Advisor reviews and an environmental ethos.

We set off in a local boat (towing the kayaks) to visit the floating fish markets. Wow – they have some quantity of fish for sale!

It seems some people can’t go on a “day trip” without their huge speaker.

We also got to see a huge fish (Pete called it Codzilla) which was 120 kg in weight and known as Lucky (apparently not for sale so probably lucky for him).

Then we set off in our kayaks, Pete and Janet in a double and our guide, Chuon, in a single kayak.

We weaved our way amongst the limestone kaarst islands and past many, many fish farms and clam fishery businesses. They bury thousands of baskets of baby clams topped with sand in the sea bed and 100 days later harvest the clams for sale. It is quite amazing that so much fish farming is allowed within a National Park, but this is Vietnam afterall.

We then landed at Nam Cat Island Resort, where we would stay for the night. 3 miles of paddling compleyed. After checking into our bungalow we tucked into a huge lunch – they just kept bringing out more plates of food!

Then we got back in tha kayaks and paddled a 5.4 mile loop in and out of the islands. We stopped for tea at a resort that was nearly ready for opening called Green Eco-bungalows (complete with swimming pool) .

And then to a beach for a swim before landing at Nam Cat Island Resort, where we would stay for the night.

A buffet dinner was served while the sea lapped against the shore.

Next morning we fuelled up for another day of kayaking and headed off at 8am (shock horror -Pete was almost ready on time). Our destination was the Three Peaches Island (an 11.2 mile round trip). We passed arches and eroded islands and stacks. It was lovely. Oh, and of course more fish farms.

And then we saw a couple kayaking by and as we looked back they were in the water trying to get back on their double kayak (not sure if they’d capsized or jumped off for swimming). The next minute the stern of their kayak started to sink and suddenly they were left holding just the bow of their kayak (officially known as a “Cleapatra’s Needle”). Their kayak obviously had no sealed flotation areas and the water had completely filled the boat. I have only ever seen this happen in training when we have removed hatch covers and purposely flooded the boat.

One buoyancy aid was floating around and the couple were clinging to the submerged boat.

Eventually their “guide” turned up in a double kayak, rescued the lady but then looked quite bewildered what to do. He left the bloke in the water for ages and luckily they were in a deep channel but one which wasn’t too far from some shallows so eventually managed to tow the guy and kayak to shallow waters to empty it. With no pump the guide came to us and asked if we could help. Our guide wouldnt hand over his pump but we cut the tops off two plastic bottles for him to use to bail out the water.

Lesson learned – don’t use poor equipment and make sure your guide has a clue !

Anyway, we continued exploring and then headed back to the bungalows for another huge lunch. For the return journey Janet was allowed to paddle the single kayak and Chuon and Pete paddled the double.

It was a great two days, the only things that could have made it better – sunshine (to show off the blue skies and sea) and no rubbish.

Unfortunately there was lots of rubbish and sometimes beaches were covered or we were paddling through bottles, plastic bags, rubber gloves etc etc. We collected a big bag of rubbish each leg of our trip but you could of collected heaps more ! Chuon collects rubbish like this every day. We were incredulous when we passed a fish farm and saw the owner finish a can of beer and chuck it out of his door into the sea – but in his own netted area!!!!!!!! Our guide asked him why but he didn’t have an answer.

This was just one of our collections!

I really hope that the locals and tourists learn better how to look after these beautiful spots otherwise in a few years to come no one is going to want to go and visit there, nevermind swim there. We need to all do out bit to protect our natural wonders.