We arrived in Ninh Binh and for once checked in at a gorgeous homestay in Tam Coc and got ourselves sorted all before a beautiful sunset.
Our accommodation was really quiet and we had soft mattresses – bliss! !!!! We just need to get a message to the cockerals that 3.30am is not morning!
We spent a great day sightseeing in Tam Coc. A good chance to rest our bottoms from the motorbike – and use bicycles instead – ha ha ha. Tam Coc actually means “Three caves” and that is exactly what we visited on our little boat powered by one little lady’s legs. So instead of rowing using their arms, they use their legs – genius. Her kids were our age so she must be in her 50s or 60s even but she was a powerhouse whizzing past all the other boats.
Then we went to a temple in the limestone karst and finished the day with a fab pizza and falafel burger. Sometimes you just have to take the opportunity not to eat another bowl of rice or noodles! In the bar we saw a group of Vietnamese tourists panned out while the music was thumping and a couple of SA girls held a heated debate at the table next to them. Wish we could sleep through like that – bet they NEVER hear the cockerals!
Before we left town the next morning Pete decided it was a good idea to climb up to the Lying Dragon Mountain. I’m not so sure when sweat was dripping off his nose that he thought it was such a good idea!
The goats made it look so easy despite the humidity!
And then a quick oil change at the Honda garage (as we’d done over the 1000km the rental company stipulated) before we headed back to Hanoi fuelled by our favourite snack, Choco Pies.
We had gotten used to the countryside traffic, which has the same lack of rules but not the quantity of vehicles. As we headed back into Hanoi (via a short part of a highway we weren’t allowed to be on, but we won’t mention that) the volume of traffic began to build and the craziness increased. It felt like being in a super fast arcade game where you overtake on the left or right and squeeze through the tiniest of gaps – yup, that was it. And then you would see a school girl serenely walking across the road without looking at all, with total confidence that everything would go all round her. At one set of traffic lights we were all slowing down but suddenly I saw a lorry behind us weaving over towards the back of the bike and not slowing. I shouted to Pete “Go Go!”, he glanced back, got the message and sped out of the way. Maybe the lorry driver was on his phone or texting or something????? Its not unusual here. Another cat’s life gone.
As we got closer to our rental shop we just kept thinking “Please let’s get the bike back without incident” and we didn’t. A much deserved high five as we returned the bike safely and got our deposit back – phew! Well done to Pete (who actually really likes all the lack of road rules and craziness).
In total we did 1,333km with 52,034 feet of elevation gain (glad we weren’t cycling it) – what an amazing trip!
