We set off from Cumberland in rain and drove through patches of sunshine and intermittent really heavy rain. The road was in bad condition and felt like a rollercoaster in places. No wonder they are spending $38 million to improve part of it!
We drove to Ucluelet and while Pete had a nap, I walked the Lighthouse Loop around the very top of the peninsula. The outcrops of rocks and islands were stunning but you can see why they’d be treacherous when navigating in a boat.
Next we made our way to Tofino. Everyone mentions this place when you say you are going to Vancouver Island but I have a feeling it was at its best maybe 20 years ago before mass tourism hit them. The provincial campgrounds were full – it must be crazy here in the summer ! We took a walk on Tonquin Beach at the West tip of the peninsula which was cool but no where to stay nearby.
We made dinner at a nearby park and then headed to the Tofino Brewery so we could buy a drink and stay in the industrial part of town.
The next morning was quite sunny for our stroll around the village.
Then we back tracked to Cox Bay but decided we should first try and get a space at the campground. Once again they were full so we checked out a private campsite that was next to the airport runway an they wanted $60 for an RV or $40 for a tent. Hmm, I don’t think so.
Ok, plan B. Enjoy the day here and then head off. So we went to Incinerator Rock beach and had our lunch watching a few surfers and one windsurfer. We had a stroll along the beach but suddenly it wasn’t so sunny.
We drove back to Cox Bay as someone has told us about a walk up from the far end of the beach for a great view. After one false start, where we turned back from a muddy quagmire, we followed some European tourists and found the right trail. It was like something out of Tomb Raider with pools, mud and roots, steep rocks and a couple of ropes to hold onto.
When we reached the top we decided the view was worth it, even the muddy boots and legs. Maybe with all this rain, perhaps that is why the locals all seem to wear wellies.
The going down seemed easier, apart from when I slipped on a tree root and nearly fell off the edge of the cliff – eekkkk! But, we both made it down safely. We bade farewell to Tofino and started to head back towards the East coast. We followed a sign for a recreation campsite called Snow Creek. We may or may not have found the right place but we did find a lovely place next to the river with a stone campfire ring that we made ours for the night. Some yummy toasted marshmallows finished off the day perfectly in front of the fire while outside the forest we could hear light rainfall. Bliss!
The night however brought torrential rain with constant bouncing on the van roof. Added to that the huge drops from the overhanging trees and suddenly you don’t get the best night’s sleep. We surfaced groggily to another day of heavy rain. Maybe we should get some wellies?
