Albania? Why Albania? Is it safe there? What is there to see there? These were the questions we were asked when we announced our holiday plans. In fairness, we didn’t know what there was to see apart from coastline like Croatia and lots and lots of mountains. We had bought a roadmap, booked flights to the capital, Tirana, and booked a hire car for two weeks. We would make the plan up as we went.
We landed at Tirana airport about 9pm and the first thing to do was get some local currency as you can’t buy Leke outside Albania. There were 6 different cash machines in the baggage reclaim area so a quick Google search told us the bank who would charge us least to withdraw (still €6 though). Next to collect our one suitcase. We turned to the baggage carousel and waited and waited. The last bags were collected and there was still no sign of our joint suitcase. On the carousel there was a similar styled suitcase but much darker in colour. Uh oh! Maybe someone took ours by mistake!
We reported our bag missing and said we’d return the next morning. The thunder and lightening was rather fitting. Next to get a local SIM. Pete had researched that Vodafone was cheapest so we went to their counter where we were told to get that price we needed to pre-order online but we could do it now. After getting on the WiFi and finally getting the form to work, we returned to the counter to be told they were cashing up and come back in 20 minutes. We wandered outside to see the torrential rain had ceased. We decided to make a run for our hotel, less than a km away. Just as we got to our hotel (Villa Zeus), the heavens opened again. We checked in and had a beer on the terrace under the big umbrellas.
After a good night’s sleep, we returned to the airport to find that our suitcase had been returned – yippee!! We were also successful at the Vodafone counter. Things were looking good! Next to collect the hire car.
I have never seen such a crazy car park for collecting and returning hire cars. Not much room to drive, full of mud and potholes and Albanians shouting people in or out of spaces. Carnage! We got out of the car park and quickly discovered that Albanians don’t give way or filter – they just balls it out. Well, if you can’t beat them, join them. We even saw a driver going the wrong way up the dual carriageway (probably to save having to continue on to the U turn opportunity).
We drove to the coastal town of Durres. It is built up with many streets back of hotels and the long sand beach must be absolutely chocca in peak season.
There was quite a lot of plastic on the beach – too much for me to collect any and make a difference. So sad. We shared a kebab at beachside cafe for lunch and drove to Vlore. This was not so built up (although lots of current building sites), and we had a lovely sunset beer on the beach.
We had our first byrek but think it had been there since breakfast so it wasnt good. For dinner we went to a lovely, family-owned, fish restaurant beneath our apartment where we had amazing fish and sautéed potatoes for about €10 each. Although the local currency is leke, most places in touristy areas take euros too and give an exchange rate of 100 leke for €1. It can range from 97 to 100 leke.
The following morning I went for a swim in the sea. Had a couple of waves over my head but it was fine once you swam past the surf zone. We had the nicest breakfast at Arial Apartments (we stayed at Arial Lofts) with traditional doughnuts, cheese, fruit jams and bread. Ooh and biscuits which became our driving treats for a few days.
We drove south and up over the Llogara Pass. It was so windy up there but still hot.
Then down on the coast the wind just dissapeared. We carried on along the coast to Dhermiu Beach. This place had an Ibiza vibe to it but you could see it would be crazy busy in the peak summer period. We shared a yummy pizza for lunch and I went for a swim.
Then we drove south again to Hirare. We checked in at Pinos Beach and met Petros at the Magic Ionian Apartments. He was an interesting guy, usually working as a financial analyst in Athens but quit his job a few months ago and was helping his parents with their rental apartments.
We drove back 10 minutes to check out the stunning Himare Castle and returned back to our beach just in time for sunset.
We walked up the road and had a lovely dinner at Taverna Stollis. It is quite like Greece in this part of Albania (was once) so I had moussaka and Pete had carbonara (also had been ruled by Italy for a long time)
After a fab night hearing the waves crashing on the beach, I went for a morning swim. We drove south again and visited Castle Palermo. It was a lovely place with some great views (and a great peach seller).
Then we spotted a village way up in the hills so decided to investigate. The tiny road wound around until we reached Upper Qepero a tiny village where people farmed in the surrounding area. I had the most amazing mountain tea (made from all local herbs) and when I tried to pay, I was somehow convinced by the little lady to try their byrek. It was really good – spinach, cheese and veg.
We drove inland to miss the built up beach resort of Sarande and headed straight to Butrint National Archeological Park which has Roman and Ottoman ruins, infact, there seem to be ruins all ages.
We drove slighlty north and stayed two chilled nights in Ksamil. The first night we watched the sunset over the bay.
The Ksamil peninsula has lots of coves, sandy small bays, beach bars, chilled lounges and bars. The first night we had dinner in the town in a taverna – beautiful fresh fish. Pete tried a local dish called tava (lamb and yoghurt stew).
The next night we watched the sun set behind Corfu (only about 2 miles away).
We then tried a grill and had a traditional platter with fergus (mix of cheese tomato and peppers), pastisio (baked pasta dish), stuffed peppers, stuffed aubergine and of course, cheese and bread. After too much local wine (1/2 litre for about €5) Janet gave about 5 times too much tip. Oopsie! It gets a bit confusing switching between the 2 currencies, euros and leke – especially after wine!
I took my last morning sea swim and before we left, picked up fresh bread from bakery for lunch (about 60 cents). We drove to The Blue Eye where we were surpised to see so many tourists and even options to take a tourist train or an electric scooter to avoiid the 30 minute walk to the natural spring. The spring was mesmerising and so blue!!!
We found the natural path to come back through the forest. Our picnic plans were hampered by mosquitoes so we had a picnic back at the car. And then set off inland towards Berat.
We knew the best weather forecast was for the first few days of our holiday and I am so glad I managed to pursuade Pete that we should spend it on the coast. It was a fantastic, relaxing way to start our holiday, while I frantically read the guidebook planning the rest of our itinerary.
Here is some of the traffic we met on the way….
